Edmonton

Vegetarian Friendly Restaurants

THE BILLIARD CLUB

Continuing with the tradition established with Julio’s Barrio, to open pub/restaurants that are both current and hospitable, while being fun places to meet friends and relax, the Billiard Club offers itself as a place where one can do all that and shoot a game of pool or billiards over a pint or a meal, or both. Located on the 2nd floor of the restored Old Strathcona’s Post Office, it has a very nice, even intimate ambiance while retaining a casual atmosphere perfect for socializing, including a beautiful second story outdoor patio, free of the street level hustle and bustle.

The vegetarian will find The Billiard Club ideal as well, since there is an abundant selection of dishes for them, to go with that game of snooker. All of the salads listed are either vegetarian already, or can be made so by omitting the chicken and/or substituting it with a chopped up Veggie Patty, as in the case of the Sesame Chicken Salad, which also includes crisp romaine lettuce, sesame seeds, snow peas, cherry tomatoes, a smoky sesame dressing, along with noodles, accompanied by garlic foccacia, Other salads include a Mixed Salad, their Caesar Salad, with a vegetarian Caesar dressing, and the Taco Salad, which comprises of romaine, tortilla chips, diced tomatoes, black olives, jalapenos and green onions, tossed and served with a side of sour cream and salsa. Forego the sour cream and you have a wicked vegan salad, same applies to the Mixed Salad, by deleting the bocconcini cheese.

They do have a daily soup feature, where they do alternate between a vegetable based stock and a meat stock, depending on the soup. Ask you server upon being seated. As for the appetizers here, they have a very good selection to choose from, with vegetarian Spring Rolls, Green Onion Cakes, served with a tasty chili soy sauce, Mozzarella Sticks with a homemade salsa, a Chilled Veggie Plate, their Basket of home-cut Fries and another Asian fave, the Edamame Beans, soy bean pods boiled and tossed in coarse salt, a personal favourite. For those who like sharing(!), there are of couse the Nachos, and a Four Cheese Spinach Dip, Monterey Jack, Cheddar, Parmesan and Cream cheeses blended along with artichokes and spinach, with a hint of red wine, served with homemade tortilla chips and topped with a red pepper paste.

Entrees include the Money’s Veggie Burger, served on a toasted Kaiser bun with the regular fixings, accompanied with your choice of a Caesar or Mixed Salad or fries. If one chooses, however, they can jazz the burg up with some of the options found on the other burgers, such as sautéed mushrooms, the patty cooked in a nice hot sauce, and so on. Other entrees include the Quesadilla-either omitting or substituting the chicken with a Veggie Patty, and the Billiard Margherita Pizza, a pizza that features fresh bocconcini, mozzarella and basil, and tomato sauce on a thin crust pizza.

The current plan is to start offering monthly menu features, incorporating vegetarian dishes as well. At this point it hasn’t transpired, but while dropping in for a quick game and a pint, ask the servers there for any updates.

In the meantime, rack’em up.

BLUE NILE RESTAURANT

The Blue Nile of Edmonton is not affiliated with the Blue Nile in Calgary, other than the fact that they are both Ethiopian restaurants, serving similar dishes. Each restaurant has their uniquely tantalizing qualities to them; they generally tend to revolve around the foods, with the exotic aromas and flavours…

The Blue Nile has existed in Edmonton for over 17 years, in different locations and under different owners. Where it is currently located, north of Chinatown, it has been there for over six years, under a new ownership, and the transition in both proprietors and geography has certainly not hurt the quality of the food. It seems a somewhat odd place to have a restaurant, as one drives down 98th Street towards the Blue Nile; it is clearly a residential street, with houses lining both sides of the street, but then, there it is-a house transformed! Complete with a patio in the front yard of this former house and cars parked outside the restaurant, it is evident that there is more to this area, than just a place people come home to, after toiling all day. On a hot sunny day it is common to find the patio lively with people enjoying a bevies with a delicious meal or appetizer. Entering the restaurant, facing as it does to the west, the sun shines warmly into a dining area rich in browns and whites, with Ethiopian arts, craft and posters on the walls. To the back there is a bar, offering full service to the patrons either before, during, and after their meals. Right as one walks in sits a table featuring the coffee urn or carafe, made from clay and fired, along with a plate for lighting incense, etc.

Understanding Ethiopian cuisine is to understand the socio-cultural traditions of the family, where recipes are passed down from generation to generation; seldom are recipes written down. Thus, foods from childhood memories pass on to one’s child’s memories and so on, and seldom will the same dish served in a number of restaurants-or homes for that matter, taste identical to one another. Family and experience dictate the flavors of the dishes, even as the ingredients remain the same. Many of the dishes tend to be vegan, since olive oil is used, as opposed to butter, in the cooking process.

Here, at the Blue Nile, they have the spices shipped as directly as possible, from Ethiopia, to retain the freshness and authenticity of the foods they prepare. They make the berbere sauce fresh daily; tradition calls for the use of 8 to 16 spices in its creation, all dependant on the origins of that particular recipe. Many of the spices are sun-dried to impart specific flavors, too. When I was there, the selections were fairly modest, but the plan was to incorporate new dishes into their menu, including a potato and carrot dish, and a bean and carrot one.

In the meantime, the foods they do have are wonderfully prepared and excellent, incredibly flavorful and, with some of them, a nice piquancy to them. The Tikel Gomen, a cabbage, potato and carrot ‘stew’, was mild, yet the flavors resonated throughout, each ingredient present on the taste buds. It played off well with the Shiro Wat, made from ground peas with onions, tomatoes and green pepper, cooked in olive oil. Wat is the dark and richly flavored sauce that is derived, principally from berbere, comprised of red peppers, cumin, ginger and coriander, among other spices. It goes very well with gorund peas, lentils and chickpeas, since they tend to have a ‘meatier’ feel and taste to them. The dishes are served in a Mesob, the woven basket and lid, all colorful and beautiful, a bow to the authenticity the Blue Nile strives to project, in providing an alternative to actually being in Ethiopia. I marvel at the presentation and preparation of the dishes, and sit back to a perfect meal, each dish bursting with flavors that range from the subtle to the robust.

During my visit there, I was offered an appetizer of jalapenos with a variety of vegetables, warmed and deliciously spicy; the frosty beer I was served being the prefect foil to the spcies and the jalapenos.

I wound up eating more than I should have, hardly a surprise given the portions and the inclination to eat before the body has a chance to argue back, unfortunately not able to take part in their ritualistic offering of Ethiopian coffee, presented in an earthenware urn, with incense and espresso-style cups to savour this black and intensely rich coffee, definitely on my ‘to do’ list for my next visit here.

BLUE PLATE DINER

The Blue Plate Diner opened its doors in August 2004. It is both the brainchild and lovechild of John and Rima Williams, both of whom are vegetarians themselves. As a result of their own lifestyle choices, the menu tends to be very balanced in its vegetarian offerings, that one won’t feel out of place at all, as a vegetarian, or a vegan. It is situated just a couple blocks north of Jasper Avenue, which works well, since the hustle and bustle becomes muted once you venture away from it, and 104th itself offers an pleasant feel to it, in particular in the summertime now that there is a Farmers Market located here on the weekends. The street is lined with old downtown style brick blocks, one in which The Blue Plate has found a home.

The ambience is quite different as well, with the Blue Plate offering subdued lighting amid some very warm earth tones, including the one wall of brick, and a tiled floor. The front is open, allowing for the sun to illuminate the room, and the windows open up in the summer to a patio along the sidewalk. Upon entering the Blue Plate one feels it to be the casually chic establishment it is, with a friendly and inviting atmosphere. There is a variety of retro-style lamps at the tables, and locally produced art adds to the cozy feel of the place; artists are invited to exhibit here too, always a plus.

Here at the Blue Plate, the menu is approximately fifty percent vegetarian, and of those many can be made vegan-if they aren’t already so-by asking that the cheese be left off the dish in question. Other than the breads and the desserts, virtually everything is made fresh on the premises from scratch, an assurance of quality and a commitment to healthy and delicious foods. The breads are made by The Tree Stone Bakery, who bakes traditionally crafted breads daily, and the desserts are made by a local woman who prepares them specially for the Blue Plate; they can vary day to day according to how quickly they are consumed.

When I went to see what the Blue Plate was like, I had a chance to order a wonderfully enticing soup, their Broccoli Asparagus and Cheddar, accompanied by a ‘simple’ slice of bread. Obviously not vegan it was nonetheless a rich blend of flavours and textures, and hearty, requiring nothing more than the slice of nutty bread. The soups here tend to be 50% vegetarian as well, using a vegetable stock as the base. Soups change daily too. For other appetizers there is a selection of salads along with nachos and Green Onion Cakes, a nod to Asian influences.

The lunch menu shows a variety of influences, from the ‘not so’ standard Veggie Burger, made here using zucchini, beets, carrots, tofu and rice, served with fries and a salad, and ‘Mac and Cheese’, as interpreted by B.P., and of course the (3 cheese) Grilled Cheese Sandwich, to a distinctly Tex/Mex series of offerings: The Cheese Enchilada, using roasted chilis to accent their flavours, a Cheese Quesadilla stuffed with avocado, red peppers, onions and smoked cheese, and finally the Bean Burrito.

There is also the Tofu Pesto Melt, using an herbed pesto and marinated tofu, and the Grilled Cornbread made in the B.P. kitchen daily, glazed with maple syrup. Beyond the menu offerings are the Daily Specials, which, on the day I was there, consisted of a Wild Mushroom Lasagna, and a Tabbouleh Salad.

The Dinner menu doesn’t vary too much other than to include two rather intriguing dishes, the Red Beans and Rice-a mélange of red beans, peppers, onions and celery in a stew, served on a bed of rice and accompanied by seasonal vegetables; and the Stuffed Peppers, their variation of an old traditional, combining a curried bean ragout and roasted vegetables, drizzled with coconut milk and apricot sauce, served with couscous and a salad. Very exotic, and tempting too!

Weekends are given over to brunches, both Saturday and Sunday, featuring, of course, egg dishes. There are eight selections available to vegetarians, some of which include the option of tofu or veggie links-veggie sausages. Some of the selections include Chilis Rellenos with eggs, the Florentine Benny, with spinach, Ranch Eggs, served with beans and corn tortillas, A stack of pancakes, eggs and veggie sausages, French Toast, eggs and veggie sausages, a Morning Sandwich comprising of a fried egg, cheese and tomatoes, with the option of also having tofu, among others.

I enjoyed supping here, and find it a great place, ideal for casual dining with friends of all persuasions, omnivores and carnivores included! There is a full service bar as well, for one to kick back and relax over one’s meal and conversation….

BOUA LOUANG - Laotian and Thai Cuisine

Boua Louang

Right in the heart of Chinatown, just up half a block from Padmanadis is situated Boua Louang, a tiny restaurant that specialises in Laotian and Thai dishes. This restaurant is fairly recent, having opened in August 2003, but what comes out of the kitchen is indicative of a mastery of the complexities of the foods that come form this area of the world. Indeed, when I spoke to Boualong, she the chef and part owner, along with her husband(who modestly insisted that I use her name only), it was clear that she takes great pride in providing the highest calibre of food here; to which she has accomplished successfully.

As indicated, it is a tiny place, so timing is of the essence when coming to eat. The décor is pleasant, with hammered metal scenes of Laos framed on the wall, along with a few paintings, just enough to give an exotic feel to this room. The kitchen sits directly behind the far wall, with the cash recess just inside, so as to ensure space for diners; there are six tables allowing for up to twenty four patrons at a time.

When I sat down I looked at the menu and, even though I had been recommended this place as ideal for vegetarians, felt a little uneasy about the seeming lack of dishes vegetarian. There were a number that give the diner an option of the kind of meat to add, suggesting that they were readily available without as well. Upon inquiring however, and being assured that there was in fact quite a good selection of dishes that are readily adapted for the vegetarian diet, specifically those numbered from 14 to 25, I decided to take the plunge and sample, being assured too that no fish oils or animal-based ingredients are used. I chose the Gaeng Kien Vahn, on the owner’s recommendation of its popularity among vegetarians, a green curry with coconut milk, mushrooms, green pepper, sweet basil and, when in season, Laotian eggplant. All of the dishes are accompanied by steamed rice, or if one chooses, coconut rice. Other selections within these noted, include Pad Puk, mixed vegetables, lemongrass, lime leaves and red chilies, Pad Ka Pow, straw mushrooms, long green beans, hot basil and red chilies, Matsamun, matsam curry and coconut milk, with potatoes and peanuts, among others. All of them sound so tantalizing, so exotic and, if the dish I had was any indication, definitely worth ordering.

The Gaeng Kien Vahn, vegetarian style, came with ample strips of pressed tofu, cooked in the curry, and instead of eggplant, zucchini slices, as well as carrots and lime leaves. A bowl of steamed rice completed the meal. I was quite overwhelmed by the aroma of this dish; the coconut milk and the curry together made me salivate as my nose welcomed these scents. My first taste was of the basil, all enveloped in the rich coconut/curry sauce; it had an almost buttery texture in the mouth, typical of the effect coconut milk has on curries. In fact however, this dish, and likely the majority of them, is vegan. And absolutely wonderful, with a lively spiciness to it, that never threatened to remove from the delicate flavors of each ingredient. I could taste the subtleties of the mushroom and the zucchini, neither of them ‘big flavour’ vegetables, and the sticky quality of the rice was perfect for trapping the sauce as it was ladled over it, along with the veggies. The lime leaves gave just the right citric hint to the curry and the coconut, with no one flavour ever overwhelming any other. Mmmmmmm, delicious.

Desserts continue to entice the palate with such exotic fare as the sticky or purple rice steamed with coconut milk, with mango and mango or vanilla ice cream, and Thai egg custard, with or without sweet rice, and vanilla ice cream.

Later, I ventured forward to the kitchen, which is when I met Boualong, complimetning her on the excellent meal I’d just had. Very warm and gracious, she told me that she has many more vegetarian recipes she wants to introduce, but space limitations prevent her from introducing them. She did assure me that all the dishes can be made vegetarian since none of them are prepared ahead of time. When she gets the order she begins cooking, using non-animal oils and ingredients for the vegetarian orders, substituting tofu for the meats, and adding other vegetables as warranted. I came away from this little nook convinced that it is ideally suited for vegetarians, only thing being to not go all at once….!

FUNKY PICKLE PIZZA COMPANY

The Funky Pickle is the kind of place that seems to have existed forever, the kind of place that helps define a certain feel or sense about Edmonton, at least, for me. I first stumbled upon it when I started doing research for this book, and have felt a sense of comfort or reassurance ever since as I would gaze upon its storefront. The Funky Pickle got its start in 1995, opening here on Whyte Avenue, and wound up becoming a part of various festivals, such as the annual Fringe Festival as well as the Edmonton Folk Festival. In 2001 Funky opened up two more locations, and eventually decided to create more accessibility for the public by having a trailer by which they could better serve functions. They even have a special line for trailer events: Trailer Events Contact: Bucky - (780) 819- 3865. To further spread the ‘funky ‘ word they make themselves available for school events: School Hot Lunch Events Contact: Karen - (780) 604-6080.

Funky Pickle is, well, funky! The look and feel is one of good times and irreverence, though they take seriously the art of creating pizza, and doing it well. They are also very vegetarian friendly, with a few selections that are geared towards the vegetarians and the vegans out there who happen to have a craving for some hot and delicious pizza pie.

The pizzas come in medium(12”), large(14”) and XXL(18”) sizes and feature a sizeable selection of toppings, some that are unique to Funky’s. For cheese they have: Feta, Mozzarella, Cheddar, Asiago and Parmesan. For vegetable toppings: Fresh Mushrooms, Kalamata Olives, Snow Peas, Bean Spouts, Pineapple, Banana Peppers, Tomato, Marinated Artichoke Hearts, Roasted Garlic, Corn, Hot Jalapeno, Zucchini, Green Peppers, Red Peppers, Onions, Spanish Onions, Spinach, Falafel.

Very impressive, having bean sprouts, corn, snow peas…falafel…

In fact, they have as some of their standard pizzas for ordering, some excellent vegetarian pizzas, including one vegan, the Falafel Pizza, with falafel, hummus and a load of veggies, drizzled with tahini sauce. Of course, one can always order any pizza without cheese to make any of them vegan, but this is the first one that is specifically created for the vegan, as well as for those who have a middle eastern craving.

Other vegetarian pizzas include the Roasted Garlic and Veggie, featuring roasted garlic, feta and spinach, the Veggie Fiesta, with cilantro, red peppers, cheddar and pineapple, the Greek, with feta, Kalamata olives, tomatoes and Spanish onions, Lonely Hearts, starring marinated artichokes, mushrooms, Asiago and Spanish onions, and finally, the Wedgetarian, with mushrooms, green peppers, zucchini, tomatoes and cheddar cheese.

All of these combinations are unique to Funky, a pleasant change from the typical offerings found in most pizzerias, an indication that they love what they do, and take to heart being on the cutting edge of pizza, so to speak.

HIGH LEVEL DINER

Situated just across the High Level Bridge from downtown, at the corner of 109th Street and 88th Avenue, the High Level Diner is perfectly situated to provide comfort and sanctuary from the vagaries of the workday, offering up tantalizing breakfasts for those on their way towards their own private realities, then availing themselves to the midday crush, finishing off splendidly by being there for the survivors, with a menu that accents foods that are both healthy, and hearty-all in a comfortable and relaxed atmosphere.

Upon entering the diner, one is immediately placed at ease, with the warm earth tones and simple décor, the wide windows affording one views of the city life as it bustles homeward, or to the university campus nearby. Walking along the bluff that overlooks downtown one will meander towards the University of Alberta, peaking out from a nestling of trees. Immediately below lies the river that slices through Edmonton, providing a necessary reminder that there where man situates himself lives the natural world too.

In a way, the ambience that makes the High Level what it is, is also indicative of the area surrounding it-natural, green, comfortable. Being a mere bridge away from the rapid pace of the downtown core, there is an ease one feels just inside the doors here, and the food offered here makes the entire picture complete. Here food is created from scratch, with a large percentage of the menu dedicated to vegetarian selections, roughly 50% in fact. Of those, many of them can be made vegan. They can also make up a dish with rice, beans and steamed vegetables for the vegan looking for something off the menu; here there is always accommodation made for special diets, even if there are selections already listed on the menu.

Looking at the menu, there is a listing for a vegetarian soup/sandwich combo that changes daily. From there they list a variety of light meals/appetizers, of which only one of them contains meat. Even that one, the Middle Eastern Appetizer Platter has a veggie option to it, regardless of the “no substitutions” posting below. They simply delete the chicken souvlaki and decrease the price accordingly. Of the other appetizers listed, there is a Baked Camembert, wrapped in pastry and served with fresh fruit home made raspberry puree and melba toast. As well there is a Humus Plate, accompanied by pita bread and a Tabbouleh Salad, a Samosa Plate, three veggie samosas served with tamarind chickpeas and a coconut cilantro chutney, all made fresh, in house. Finally, there is also an order of nachos, with the option of adding either guacamole, sour cream, or both, unless the diner is vegan, in which there is simply no cheese, sour cream or guacamole added.

As well, there is a selection of salads including a Green Salad of baby and romaine lettuces, tomatoes peppers, onions and carrots in a home made balsamic herb vinaigrette, a Mediterranean Salad which includes Kalamata Olives, cucumbers, red and green peppers, tomatoes, in a home made oregano vinaigrette. There is also a Tabbouleh Salad, made from bulgar, parsley, tomatoes and cucumbers. The Chicken Thai Salad can easily be made vegan by not adding the chicken. All the salads are available in large and small sizes as well.

I decided to try the Diner’s Vegetarian Burger, a massive pattie made of brown rice, soybeans, sunflower seeds, onions and flax meal, flavoured with Tabasco and soy sauce, bedded on a wholewheat bun and laden with sprouts, lettuce and tomatoes.. Accompanying it was a mountain of home cut fries, although I could’ve opted for a salad instead. When the burger was brought to my table I was also presented with a plate of condiments mad on the premises, including their very own ketchup, a corn salsa, horseradish/Dijon mustard and a beet chutney-all of them excellent. The burger was big, juicy and perfectly enjoyable. Did I mention that it was also very filling? I wound up, dipping my fries in the ketchup, a uniquely different version to the sweet, commercial style of ketchup found in bottles and stores everywhere. The Diner’s version had just the right hint of garlic to it, allowing it to soften the bite of fresh tomatoes.

For the Entrees section there is a selection of vegetarian dishes that includes a Black Bean Chili, topped with your choice of guacamole, sour cream or cheese, and accompanied by their homemade grilled corn bread. For the vegan diet they simply top the chili with tomatoes and onion and serve it with salsa and corn chips on the side instead of the cornbread. They also have a Spinach Enchilada, served with Santa Fe New Mexican Black Beans, rice and a tomato jalapeno sauce. The vegan version doesn't have either the cream cheese or the tomato jalapeno sauce. There is also the Spinach Pie, fresh dill, cooked spinach, feta cheese and onions in filo pastry, served with your choice of salad. Two other vegetarian selections are listed, the first being their vegetarian Tostada, and the (vegan) Vegetable Curry, a hearty blend of tomatoes, cauliflower and onions, served on a bed of basmati rice accompanied by ginger cumin green beans, tamarind chickpeas and warm papadoms. Fajitas cane be made either vegetarian or vegan by absenting the meat, and in the case of vegans, the cream cheese and the guacamole.

Topping off the menu is an extensive selection of desserts, including two Krisps, an apple and a Wild Blueberry one. As well, there is a doubledecker Carrot Cake, a variety of cheesecakes their own Strawberry Rhubarb Pie and their Wild Blueberry Pie, with or without whipped cream, along with a homemade Bread Pudding with Brown Sugar Sauce, and lastly, a Chocolate Walnut Brownie.

The High Level Diner takes pride in being able to cater to a variety of needs and special diets, being listed on the Celiac Website for Edmonton, for example. I also happened upon a website geared towards feeding the masses, ie. recipes for large gatherings, and there before my eyes was the recipe for the High Level Diner Veggie Burger-to make 48 patties! (recipe listed below) They approach the serving and preparations of foods seriously, seeking to ensure that their menu is a healthy one, with many options available. Personally, I think they succeeded.

Place soy beans into a large stock pot with 28 cups of cold water. (Soy beans will expand considerably). Bring water to a boil, simmer for 2-3 hours or until beans are soft. Drain well, set aside. Heat olive oil, sauté garlic and onions over medium heat until translucent. Meanwhile prepare brown rice. Wash rice in several changes of water, drain thoroughly. Combine rice with 14 cups of cold water and bring to a boil. Cook for about 30-40 min. or until rice is medium soft...you do not want the rice overcooked.

In a 350 deg. oven toast the sunflower seeds lightly, turning often so seeds brown evenly and do not burn. Using a food grinder or food processor, grind soy beans in several batches if necessary. Place in a large bowl and combine with the cooked rice, onions, garlic and sunflower seeds. Add seasoning and crumbs mixing well, then add beaten eggs combining well. Form mixture into 5 oz. portions (roughly the size of a tennis ball).

Place on waxed paper sheets and set on a baking tray. Refrigerate patty portions for 15 min. Placing a waxed paper square over each patty portion, press into burgers of half inch thickness. (We use two wooden burger presses) Chill for at least 1 hour (or up to 24 hr.) between waxed paper sheets. Fry burgers in vegetable oil over medium heat until patties are nicely browned on both sides. Turn patties once only, as they will break apart with too much handling. For a cheese veggie burger, top with grated cheddar and place under broiler until cheese melts. To serve, spread buns with mayo, add torn or shredded lettuce, tomato slices and sprouts. Enjoy!

INDIAN GARDEN

Located in an industrial area, Indian Garden is large, including its banquet and catering facilities, with a very reasonable Buffet served, very well presented in a nicely decorated dining area replete with the gentle lilt of Indian music in the background.

They make some of the best nan here, and their Dal is quite good too. Spices tend to favour the ‘western’ palate, but not at the expense of the flavors. The dishes change regularly at the buffet and there is always a generous selection for the vegetarian diner.

JULIO’S BARRIO

Westend Station Location:17021 100th Avenue, Hours: Sun to Thurs 11:30am to 10pm, Fri -Sat, 11:30am to 11pm.

Julio’s Barrio is the result of one person’s two passions, and the second one is reflected by the versatility of the menu, and how it accommodates those who share Dan’s passion(s). Dan Gnenz is the owner of Julio’s Barrio, and it has come about as a result of his love of all things Mexican, and his vegetarian/vegan diet. Dan started out as a vegetarian, then became vegan in 1993, which is roughly around the time he opened up the first Julio’s, the one located on Whyte Avenue.

Julio’s is a restaurant/bar that specializes in Mexican and Tex-Mex style foods. Dan’s commitment to his loves has dictated that the food, the ambience be as authentic as possible, and to that end he ensures that the salsas and virtually everything served is made from scratch, and on site. A cursory look at the menu indicates that roughly 50% of it is vegetarian, but the great thing about Julio’s, is that even the meat dishes can be made either vegetarian or vegan, with the simple substitution of Yves Veggie Round(a vegan ground beef alternative) for ground beef. The resulting dish is impossible to differentiate from its original version. For those who are vegan/vegetarian, the menu advises them of this option, so they need not “settle” for certain selections over other ones. As well, many of the dishes are made without meats, such as the Chimichangas, where there is opportunity to “add on” chicken or beef, for an additional cost. Interestingly enough, even though approximately 90% of the clientele may be non-vegetarian, the veggie dishes are extremely popular.

Julio’s uses vegetable stock for all their dishes; their soups are always vegetarian. Because La Sopa De Tortilla is garnished with feta cheese it is quite possible that it could be made vegan; it would be best to inquire prior to ordering however. Under Sopas & Ensaladas, there are three salad selections alongside the Sopa De Tortilla, Julio’s Salad which is served in a taco bowl, brimming with green leaf and romaine lettuces, shredded carrot and cabbage, tossed in a balsamic vinegar dressing and topped with sliced roma tomatoes, the Taco Salad, their house salad with shredded cheese, sour cream, crispy tortilla strips and veggie ground round for the vegetarian, a selection of meat choices for non-vegetarian, and finally, the Mexican Caesar Salad, which combines crisp romaine lettuce with their own vegetarian Caesar salad dressing, tortilla strips, parmesan cheese, and served in a tortilla bowl.

Their Mucho Macho Nachos also have the option of veggie ground round, if one chooses, to go with the green peppers, black olives, onions, diced tomatoes and jalapenos, all liberally strewn throughout a mountain of warmed nacho chips, smothered in monterey jack and cheddar cheeses.

In the Antojitos section four out of the seven selections are vegetarian, they being the Ranchero Dip, a dish of refried beans, guacamole, salsa, shredded monterey jack and cheddar cheeses with sour cream, baked and then served with corn tortilla chips, with an option of adding veggie ground, Stuffed Jalapenos, stuffed with cheese then deep-fried and served with a salsa and sour cream dip, the Patiacitas, six flour tortillas rolled around cream cheese and sundried tomatoes before being deep fried to a crispy golden brown and served with an ancho pepper and plum sauce, and the Queso Fundido, a flour tortilla loaded with monterey jack and cheddar cheeses and served with lettuce and fresh chimole salsa, Julio’s salsa and sour cream.

Julio’s Classics section is where vegetarianism shines, with every dish save for the chicken breast ones being vegetarian, or having veg options available. These include the Barrio Quesadillas, where interestingly enough they offer portabello mushrooms as the veg option, to go with the sautéed onions, red and green peppers, a smoky chipotle sauce all inside a grilled flour tortilla, topped with chimole salsa, lettuce and sour cream and served with Mexican rice, refried beans and a corn salad. As well, the Barrio Enchilladas, Burritos and Chimichangas are all either vegetarian with the option of adding a meat, or have a veggie alternate available, each of these also served with the refried beans, corn salad and Mexican rice. The Four Grande Tacos, is a do-it-yourselfer’s delight, with four crisp corn or flour tortillas provided with a platter holding lettuce, jalapenos, shredded monterey jack and cheddar cheeses, salsa, diced tomatoes and sour cream, and veggie ground if desired. The final three selections are Julio’s Platter, with a quesadilla and two enchiladas, vegetarian available, the Barrio Chili, veggie ground as an option, served with three flour tortillas, and the Pasta San Miguel, a delicious penne pasta that is brimming with sun-dried tomatoes, jalapenos, red and green peppers, onions, mushrooms and mangos, all in a chipotle pepper cream sauce and topped with parmesan cheese and cilantro.

Last, but by no means least, is my favourite-well, one of many, the Vegetarian Fajitas, which is comprised of sautéed yellow onions, red and green peppers and portabello mushrooms served on a cast iron skillet and accompanied by warmed flour tortillas, sour cream, Julio’s Salsa, monterey jack and cheddar cheeses and guacamole. Que rico!

Julio’s offers a selection of their signature salsas, six of them, ranging in spiciness from mild to extremely hot, from the Chimole Salsa to the Nuclear Salsa…..you have been warned.

The Supplementarios section is for those who would like an added side to their meal, be it a side salad, guacamole, etc.

And, of course their dessert section includes the deep fried ice cream, as well as Arroz con Leche, a rice pudding with cinnamon, raisins and topped with whipped cream and cocoa, a Mexican Caramel Cheesecake, and something I love, the Comida de Mono(Monkey food), which is banana stuffed pastries rolled in cinnamon and sugar and served with a chocolate sauce. Mmmmmmmmmmmmm…..

Now, the only thing missing is a bucket of beer, or a pitcher of Margaritas….or both!

Note: Dan has added to his establishments, with the Iron Horse Eatery & Watering Hole, at 8101 103rd Street, (780)438-1907, Sun-Wed, 11:30am-midnight, Thurs-Sat, 11:30am-2am. A former Train station transformed into a pub and night spot, it features pizza for the hungry, and good times beyond. www.theironhorse.ca

KRUA WILAI THAI RESTAURANT

Krua Wilai is a wonderful restaurant situated on the main floor of the Sterling Place building, in downtown Edmonton. It is owned and operated by Michael and Wilai Harrington; the name literally means “Wilai’s Kitchen”. It has been open for over 7 years, since 1996, as a result of desires, fate and good fortune. Michael, an older, and seemingly unusual candidate for running a restaurant, was previously involved in construction work. His entire life revolved working in manual labour positions, and his heavy-set frame would offer proof of that. As things happened, he wound up without work a few years ago and, at his age, didn’t see much likelihood of getting any work in his field. At the same time, Wilai had always expressed a desire for opening up her own restaurant, having been a chef when she lived in Thailand. As good fortune would have it, a restaurant at this location closed down and they took a chance on buying it, and set about transforming it into a Thai restaurant.

When one first sets foot inside the restaurant, one is struck by how bright it is, with the authentic Thai decoratives on the walls. There are two chefs including Wilai, both of them being Thai, thus ensuring that the dishes are authentic. For these reasons, they stake the claim that the Krua Wilai is the only authentic Thai restaurant in Edmonton. The claim could very well be true. Certainly, it has a very friendly and casual feel about it, with an open concept kitchen where one can watch the dishes being prepared. The dishes are made upon being ordered and everything is made fresh, from scratch.

Michael is not only in charge of overseeing the restaurant’s operations-outside of the kitchen, but he also does the shopping, daily going about making small purchases rather than bulk ones, to ensure that the produce, etc maintain its fresh qualities.

When first sitting down, a menu is presented, upon which is written “Vegetarian Menu Available”. This is where, when the veggie menu is requested, one learns that virtually the entire menu can be adapted to a vegetarian’s taste. Vegans can feel very comfortable dining here as well, since the dishes are very flexible as to the ingredients they are prepared with. Since everything is cooked as it is ordered, this is not a problem for the kitchen staff. As well, vegetarian and vegan dishes are prepared using separate woks, deep fryers and utensils, to ensure the purity of the dietary requirements.

Michael told me that, over the course of the 7 years the restaurant has been open, it has been a continual learning curve for them; when they had first opened they weren’t aware of some of the sensitivities of their clientele, the cooking implements as an example. One of their first vegetarian patrons asked them how the foods were prepared, and as a result of the inquiries they made the decision to keep the cooking of the vegetarian foods separate from the non-vegetarian fare. This is the kind of commitment to their customers that has kept them loyal to the Krua Wilai, coming back time and time again.

As for the food, well, from what I sampled, it is simply amazing. Again the word fresh enters into my vocabulary; the dishes I sampled had a light and fresh flavour to them, typical of fine Thai cuisine. One of the dishes I had, the Kaeng Khiao wan Nuea, is a Green Curry, in my case made without the beef. It was spicy without being overly so, and can be made to one’s individual tastes as far as the spiciness. Next time I will ask for a spicier version. It was excellent, from the presentation to the marrying of the flavours of the various vegetables to the curry sauce. Accompanying this dish was a Thai fried rice dish, the Kaow Paad, using a tomato base, incorporating peppers, resulting in a dish that tasted not like any “fried” rice I’d ever had previous to this. To round out the meal I also sampled the Paad Jay, a fried vegetable dish, a mix of fresh vegetables pan-fried to retain their texture, as well as some Rice Paper Spring Rolls, made only for the lunch buffet.

The lunch buffet changes daily, to keep their regular patrons from becoming “bored” with the foods served there. There are always at least two vegetarian dishes, and for those who are vegetarian or vegan, the chef will make other dishes for them upon request, as part of the buffet offerings, so they don’t feel they are lacking the benefits of a buffet meal.

They rely on sauces that are intense without being heavy on the palate. The vegetables are presented with a crispiness to them as though they were steamed or lightly fried, without the oiliness one might expect from the frying process. Many of the dishes are made incorporating coconut and/or peanut, either as a base or as sauces. Lemongrass figures prominently, as well as mint, lime, chili pastes and basil.

The Krua Wilai is a great place diners of all diets, since the flexibility of the food preparations ensures that mixed parties will feel equally at home dining here.

LANGANO SKIES

On the east end of Whyte Avenue is situated Langano Skies, a great Ethiopian restaurant, a recent arrival to Edmonton’s dining scene in fact, having opened its doors in the summer of 2004. It has settled in quite nicely too, judging by the response they have received from vegetarians and non-vegetarians alike. Paul Sumamo is the owner and manager of Langano Skies, and his wife Amsale is the head cook, principal chef. They have lived in Edmonton for twenty-two years and, as of 2004 are committed to providing as real an Ethiopian dining experience to Edmontonians as possible. To that end they simply do not compromise on the ingredients they use in creating the amazingly complex and delicious dishes offered here.

Entering Langano Skies, off the Whyte Avenue sidewalk, one is immediately made to feel as though they are in a richly warm and earthy refuge from reality-the walls being painted in warm reds and earth tones, decorated by wall hangings and posters; one wall is taken over with a mural, to make the transition from Edmonton vistas to African ones more smooth. It is named after Lake Langano, situated in the Great Rift Valley, set before the Arsi Mountains.

Ethiopia is a country of societal complexities not accustomed to by most Canadians; while the official language is Amharil, there are over seventy languages spoken there, and over two hundred dialects! Add to that the different cultures and religions, one of them being the Ethiopian Orthodox Religion(Christian origin), and one gets a sense that there is a cultural melding there, with much diversity in thought and attitude throughout the social strata.

As mentioned before, there is a lot of vegetarianism that occurs in Ethiopia, as a result of the religious beliefs of the people; fasting takes place for 200-260 days of the year, where no meat or animal products are consumed. This is reflected in Ethiopian cuisine, and in particular with Ethiopian restaurants as mentioned here. Langano Skies is no exception; the vast majority of their vegetarian dishes are vegan, save for one or two, which contain either cheese or butter.

Their interpretations of Ethiopian cuisine are personal; ask any Ethiopian chef of their recipes and they will say the same thing, that they are made as when they’ve been passed down, from person to person, one generation to the next, with each succeeding heir applying their own characteristics to them. Thus, dishes that carry the same names and ingredients, will seldom taste exactly alike, per interpreter, since the spices will vary in quantities and therefore, how the flavours will meld together. Here at Langano Skies, there is great pride in the preparation and presentation of the foods, equal to the ambience sought, and successfully attained in the dining area-a cozy intimacy that is yet casual and accessible.

There are three appetizers available for the vegetarian palate, of which two of them are not vegan. Enculal Firfir is a scrambled egg dish, with jalapenos, onions and tomatoes, served either with injera or buns. Kategna, a definite taste bud teaser, is injera, coated with a spread made from garlic, jalapeno, ginger and butter. I chanced to sample it and was left wanting more, it was so savoury and appealing. The third selection, Sambusa with Vegetables, is an Ethiopian version of samosas, with green peas, green peppers, onions and carrots in pastry. As well, there are salads available, a basic Garden salad and a Caesar salad too.

For the vegetarian entrees there are seven of them, distinguished either as ‘mild’ dishes, such as ‘aletcha’ or the spicier ones using the rich berbere sauce; both of these are typical Ethiopian styles of dishes, reflective of the different tastes of the diner. They are all served with injera, of course.

The Yemisir Kik Wot is a split lentils dish cooked in Berbere sauce, as opposed to the Yemisir Kik Aletcha Wot, which is cooked in a mild curry sauce.

The Ater Kik Wot, has split peas and red lentils-an Ethiopian staple, simmered in Berbere sauce, while the Ater Kik Aletcha Wot again is cooked in a curry sauce base.

Shiro Wot, a roasted pea dish, ground up, then simmered in Berbere, sounds tantalizing, given the dark spicy richness of the berbere married with the smokey roasted qualities of the peas.

Gomen Wot is spinach, garlic, onions and hot green peppers, cooked together with ‘lyeb’, a homemade Ethiopian cottage cheese, in Berbere sauce.

Finally, there is the Ateklit Aletcha Wot, a mélange of carrots, potatoes, cabbage and spices, simmered in a mild curry sauce.

There is also a vegetarian combination plate available, consisting of Gomen Wot, Ater Kik Aletcha Wot, Yemisir Kik Wot and Ateklit Aletcha Wot.

The subtleties of the spices are retained, with each ingredient able to be tasted and savoured, in even the spiciest of dishes, thanks to the artistry of the chef, and the freshness of the ingredients. Nothing here is ‘store bought’; indeed it is difficult to find the spices necessary to create Ethiopian dishes here, the majority of them have to be shipped in from either Africa or certain distributors in the US and elsewhere, making Ethiopian cuisine an added treat for one’s palate, something truly meant to be experienced and enjoyed, all the way through to the special Ethiopian coffees after the feast, to accompany the dessert selections. As well, there is an extensive selection of beverages, both alcoholic and non, with a full bar service.

In response to the vegetarian interests in Langano Skies, the last Tuesday of every month has an all-you-can-eat buffet, with advance reservations through ticket purchases. Definitely something to book ahead for.

LOS COMALES

Los Comales

Driving north on 97th Street’s Chinatown district, just on the edge of it, sits a building that houses Los Comales. It used to be another restaurant prior to October of 2001, when the doors opened to this new enterprise. Jorge and Elba Maldonado are the owners, both of them warm and open people who are quick to welcome their guests like family. Clearly, one doesn’t see immediately, upon gazing at this place, that which awaits them upon entering and ordering, but with the friendliness of the staff and owners, one quickly comes to embrace Los Comales as another destination of great food and good times.

It is a place that brought to mind many establishments I visited when I lived in Mexico, unpretentious yet welcoming, where friends gather to visit, eat, enjoy the company. There is even an area where one can purchase some groceries, salsas and such, items not normally available elsewhere, in the mainstream. Posters of Guatemala and Mexico hang on the walls, as do a few mementos, or recuerdos of these places. Since my first visit there a couple years ago, they have since expanded into the area next door, which accommodates twenty-five guests, for larger gatherings, as well as providing space and opportunity for live music; musicians from Latin America who are touring, as well as local Latin musicians.

The menu has a fair amount of vegetarian items, from their specialty pupusas and doblados, to the traditional Huevos Rancheros. For those not familiar with them, Pupusas are similar to dumplings, made with corn flour, then stuffed with beans and cheese before being fried without oil. Doblados are not unlike the pupusa, in that they too are made of a corn flour dough, then stuffed with beans and cheese, except that they are fried in oil. They are served accompanied with a flavorful tomatillo sauce for dipping. I ordered both of these selections and came away hooked on them, so tasty they were. Other appetizers include deep-fried plantain, served with a dipping salsa, Tostadas, which can be ordered as a vegetarian selection.

Beside the Huevos Rancheros, there are Vegetarian Fajitas and a Vegetarian Dinner, for entrees, the Vegetarian Dinner being a combination of vegetables with fruit and rice, and the fajitas come with two tortillas, salsa and guacamole, both of which are prepared fresh daily, in house. Other dishes can be made vegetarian if requested, such as the burritos and quesadillas, and a Guatemalan dish known as El Chapin, a dish that would normally include chorizo sausage to accompany the eggs, peppers, onions, black beans and tortillas.

This is a family owned restaurant, and they have received many accolades from their patrons as as the media. It shows in the love and care that goes into transforming desires for certain selections into the realization of them, via satisfied taste buds. La comida es muy rico acqui…gracias de mi parte.

MONGOLIA EXPRESS

The Mongolia Express, situated in a small strip mall across from Save On Foods in the Strathcona district off Whyte Avenue, is a small treasure for the itinerant diner. It is very good and very inexpensive, with a large enough selection of options for the ‘grill-as-you-wait’ style of restaurant, as made famous by places such as The Mongolie Grill, among others. Here, it isn’t based on the weight of your food, since all dishes are set at $5.79 without meat, unless it is weighing in at over two pounds, at which point they charge extra.

This is a family-run restaurant, small, with perhaps room for 8-10 tables of customers. It is intended for people who need a quick and nutritious meal, carrying a distinctly modern and open feel to it, not unlike casual, or even fast-food traits to its décor. Décor notwithstanding, one doesn’t come here for the ambience, but for the food. It is extremely vegetarian friendly, from the hot and sour soup and the stir-fry, to the wraps and other accompaniments available.

I ordered the soup and stir-fry combo, and was assured that the hot and sour soup is vegetarian, with a vegetable stock base, and no fish/animal oils in it. It had a pleasing taste to it, with a tangy yet warm spice to it, all chock full of slivered vegetables and tofu. This was provided while my mongolie stir-fry was being prepared, after I had chosen the ingredients I wanted, baby corn, chestnuts, noodles and different mushrooms, broccoli and carrots, peppers, etc, all swathed in a combination of sauces-most of them vegetarian as well. Accompanying the stir-fry was a bowl of steamed rice, with which I further stretched my meal, and my stomach as it turned out, leaving the place quite full, and content.

The Mongolia Express has been open for approximately five years.

NEW ASIAN VILLAGE

Now with 3 locations New Asian Village is perhaps the most familiar Indian restaurant in Edmonton, and now they feature buffet lunch and dinner every day of the week. They have an extensive selection for vegetarians, including a variety of Dal and Masalas with many kinds of breads to accompany them. Side dishes include a vegetable pulau, steamed, coconut and saffron rices, as well as a choice of homemade yogurt, Raita and various pickles and chutneys, made fresh.

As with most Indian restaurants, I find the ideal is to eat, at least the first time from their buffet, to best familiarize oneself with the foods, and the New Asian is no different. The selections and the flavours are all sufficiently different that buffets allow for one to sample a variety of dishes. And of course, feasting has other positives attached, such as justifying the exercising!

The South location also features Indian Sweets made by the Bikaner Sweet House, renowned for their delicious sweets. It is a large, 6,000 square foot dining area, laden with beautiful antiques and tapestries from India, to enhance the experience further.

Reservations recommended.

NUM CHOK WILAI

A Thai restaurant that has vegetarian selections, including vegan salad rolls seems a rare treat indeed, since so many places tend to claim ‘vegetarian’ while incorporating fish sauces and shrimp paste into a number of their veggie dishes. This restaurant has been deemed the most authentic Thai restaurant in Edmonton, suggesting a closer look is warranted in the near future.

Num Chok Wilai serves their Paw Pia Sod Koong, salad rolls, four to an order, as vegan too, so this place bodes well for vegetarians. Look too, for the Krapow Jay, a nice stir fry of tofu, peppers, mushrooms and baby corn with basil in a garlic chili sauce, accompanied if one chooses, with a most wonderful tofu fried rice. Worth a visit.

SKINNY LEGS AND COWGIRLS

Skinny Legs

Wow. When you find this place, an Alberta version of a bistro, you stand there, mouth agape as you slowly form a smile on your face, reading the sign dangling before your eyes. What a way to introduce one to the marvels within…

Skinny Legs is the brainchild of Susan and Amy Kellock, mother and daughter respectively, in their quest to open a restaurant that would best represent Susan’s French culinary skills while retaining a unique brand of personality and irreverence in their establishment. How else, than to name it after a Tom Robbins book, of which they are both great admirers. Skinny Legs is a tiny space, but the foods served are huge, both in quantity and in spirit; this is a place intended to be enjoyed as much as the dishes, with the dishes intended for sharing, as they are served on platters with accompanying plates for each person.

Sadly, it is not a place suited for the vegan, being of the French style of cuisine, but there may be requests catered to, in particular if one gives them advance notice. The entire place is um, cozy, so even the refrigerators are limited as to food quantities. Amy and Susan shop daily for the evening’s meal preparations, and since it is all made from scratch and organically sourced, there are generally many culinary miracles performed here on a regular basis. The irony here too, is that both Amy and Susan are vegetarians even though the dishes served tend to favour the non-vegetarian diner. Having said that, they do have a number of items on the menu that set them apart from the usual vegetarian selections available elsewhere, again thanks to Susan’s culinary wizardry, and her love for food.

Soups are always made using a vegetable stock and the kinds of soup vary, dependent entirely on what strikes Susan’s fancy on any given day, coupled with what they buy at the market. The House Salad is vegan, created from organic greens and other garden pleasures, then tossed with a house dressing of their own making. There are anchovies in their Caesar Salad though, so be aware of that.

They have a savory Organic Blackbean Hummus that is served with organic corn tortillas, ideally suited for sharing around your table, due to both the quantity and the flavors; the black beans tend to give a richer taste to what one is used to from hummus. They work extremely well here.

Coconut Rice, not quite what one would receive ordering from an Asian restaurant, this verison features basmati rice that contains onions, infused with coconut milk and then topped with both cilantro and toasted and shredded coconut. This dish is vegan Papas con Leche, sounds so enticing, with the baby potatoes sautéed with onions, chilies and peanuts, then combined with feta cheese and finished with cream.

Spaghetti Squash is baked, then simmered with lemon, cashews and nutmeg and butter. Nutmeg seems ideally suited to the very mild flavour of the spaghetti squash, and the butter and lemon enhance it further by adding a certain zest to the dish.

Polenta with Pinto Beans and Coconut Basmati Rice, freshly made polenta with pinto beans presented on top of the coconut rice and topped with a hot, buttered salsa, homemade of course.

The vegetarian version of the Franco Pollo has tofu offered instead of chicken, sautéed with spices and onions, tomatoes, lemon juice and then finished with cream, an absolutely superb dish, all laden with a variety of flavors.

And, while it may not be listed on the menu, Amy will let her diners in on an increasingly less well-kept secret, that they do a wonderful Grilled Vegetable Platter, featuring virtually every kind of seasonal vegetable available at Skinny Legs; it too is vegan, and so delectable.

This is an amazing place to experience; on any given night it is loud and fun as though there were twice as many people there and everyone knew each other. Even though Skinny Legs and Cowgirls only opened in 2007, early, they succeeded in wining the Golden Fork, for the best new restaurant for 2007, no small feat for a tiny, intimate and fun ‘sort of’ bistro.

THE STONEHOUSE PUB

Located close to the High Level Bridge on Jasper Avenue, the Stonehouse is ideally suited for just kicking back with a cold one, a meal or something lighter, as available on their appetizer menu. They feature a number of veg selections: Pizza Bread-using pizza crust with cheese, seasonings and served with a pizza sauce for dipping, Nachos Supreme,, a Veggie Platter, Jalapeno Jack Sticks, breaded jalapeno monterey jack cheese sticks served with a tangy mango habanero sauce, Patchos, a Stonehouse feature, combining cross-track fries with a mix of melted cheese and green onions, served with the secret patcho sauce for dipping, along with baskets of French fries, onion rings, or chips and salsa. Some of these are vegan, others not so much.

Salads offered for the vegetarian include the House, served with garlic toast and a choice of dressing, a Greek salad served with tzatziki and pita bread, a Spinach Salad-ask that they not include the bacon bits, served with garlic toast, and Haystacks, a variation of the taco salad, with taco chips topped with lettuce, tomatoes, green onions and jalapenos, mixed cheese, sour cream and salsa.

Vegetarian entrees include the Fettuccini Alfredo, with garlic toast, the Garden Burger, on a cornmeal Kaiser, along with sprouts, tomato, onion, cucumbers, mozza, mayo and Dijon, served with a choice of fries, soup(check on vegetarian option) or salad. A Grilled Cheese Sandwich, with a choice of two cheeses, grilled on either brown or white bread and served with pickle spears and a choice of soup, salad or fries, a Veggie Stir Fry served on either noodles or rice, with a side of garlic toast, and a Quesadilla-where one deletes the chicken, round out the vegetarian choices at the Stonehouse, enough to keep one satisfied while nursing their bevies. A number of these can be made vegan, best to ask the server when ordering.

SUGAR BOWL COFFEE & JUICE BAR

Sugar Bowl

The Sugar Bowl has been around for a while, since the 1940‘s in fact, situated where it is beside what is now the High Level Diner, attracting a different crowd for what they served back then, the current crowd being what would be deemed the ‘tweens of today-old enough to have been there, but too young to have become sedentary, the mid-twenties to late thirties set. How popular is it? Well, considering its proximity to the University and to Whyte Avenue, perched just off 109th Street’s never ending cavalcade of cars, its pretty safe to say its extremely busy, often with nary a chair to sit on. Obviously, it isn’t just the times that have changed, with new ownership over the years the Sugar Bowl has also changed, especially in the last five years or so. But the beauty of it, is that there is this nice casual funk to it even as they fill to capacity regularly, not dated at all. Entering this niche one is confronted by a centrally placed draft dispensing bar, from where the entry to the kitchen stems. All around are tables with people engaged in conversation or the books they’ve brought to digest, along with their food and perhaps a drink to quaff as well. Red brick walls with the sun streaming into the large front windows emitting a comfortable feel…pleasantly casual again.

Looking at the menu one will find enough variety for the vegetarian as well as the vegan, from the Edamame, steamed soy beans with sea salt, Sweet Chili Lime Popcorn and the Citrus Honey Cashews under the listing of Bites, which also has some more substantial appetizers including Three Cheese Panini, with parmesan, gouda and aiago, the Three Bean Hummus served with pita bread, an Artichoke Tomato Bruschetta with pita, a Cheese and Olives dish with grilled pita and the Baked Balsamic Goat Cheese Stuffed Tomato, accompanied by a shallot butter bread. There is only one item under ‘Bites’ that isn’t at least vegetarian, with many of them vegan, as you can see.

For salads, both the Plum Spring and the Mandarin Soy are vegetarian friendly, and the daily soup is often made using a vegetable stock. Ask the server when ordering.

For dinner they offer both a Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie, using ground round instead of meat, along with corn and green beans covered with a mashed potato crust, and the Autumn Harvest Burger, made in house from four beans, three seeds, two grains and a fruit….very intriguing indeed.

They have a number of entrees available, with substitutions of tofu where there is either chicken or pork indicated. Since it is all made upon ordering there are no fears of accidental meats appearing in one’s plate! The entrees vary from the tried and true(with a twist), Mac ‘n Cheese, featuring either a cream or tomato sauce, the Garden Vegetable Ravioli, served with a caper citrus Caesar, an Asiago Alfredo with mushrooms and substituting the chicken for tofu, a very tasty Coconut Curry Tofu served on steamed rice, the Thai Lemongrass Tofu(having substituted the chicken) on vermicelli and the Vietnamese Sweet and Spicy Tofu(substitute the pork) on steamed rice.

The lunch fare is similar, with the added Veg Wrap, a wrap of bell peppers mushrooms and black bean wild rice, served with a side of hummus, along with some of the lighter fare listed on the dinner menu, including the different spreads, the Harvest Burger, etc.

Sugar Bowl opens for breakfast at 8am, with brunch served on the weekend. Breakfasts tend to revolve around the staples, muffins and bagels, as well as a few egg dishes, including their version of Huevos Rancheros, with corn tortillas, refried beans, an artichoke salsa-an in house specialty, and fried eggs. Even their staples take on a stamp all of their own with the home made Blueberry Panne Kuchenand their choices of muffins, the pineapple coconut, blueberry bran or the date/walnut.

Weekend brunch expands their selections slightly, with two omelettes, the Spinach and Feta, and the Bacon Mushroom and Gouda(asking of course that the bacon be omitted), served with pan fries, and their Cinnamon French Toast with a strawberry compote. There is something very pleasant about strolling down to the Sugar Bowl on a lazy Saturday or Sunday morning, armed with a book or some friends, and enjoying a nice leisurely breakfast while the world passes by…

SWEET MANGO, MODERN ASIAN CUISINE

Sweet Mango

Oftentimes when dining out, a certain trust has to be developed between the patron and the establishment, where the diner can be assured that the dietary needs they have are met every time without fear of error. Vegetarians feel this to be particularly true with respect to oriental restaurants due to a large part differences in cultures, where certain foods aren’t deemed to be animal in base, as well as the ability to effectively communicate ones’ needs or requirements. Such is not the case here at Sweet Mango, a recent arrival to the Edmonton scene, a family run restaurant where the manager himself is virtually vegetarian. He has a greater awareness and appreciation for the dietary requirements and is thus able to ensure the foods prepared for the vegetarians are exact to those standards, so one can rest assured that there will be no fish oils or pastes found within the dishes that are vegetarian.

Sweet Mango is an open restaurant, with very clean and simple lines to it, conjuring up elegance in its simplicity rather than a sterile feel. The sense one gets when entering is that one will be dining on truly authentic Asian fare, with a decidedly Vietnamese slant to it, one’s mouth salivating already. The vegetarian and vegan patrons will find much to titillate their taste buds with here.

The menu has a vegetarian section already, with a very good selection of dishes from which to choose from, ranging from the Vegtable Summer Rolls, the rice noodle wrapped salad roll with lettuce, cucumber, carrots, sprouts, vermicelli, fresh mint, served cold with their own peanut sauce, and their own Vegetarian Spring Rolls, served in a homemade soy sauce for dipping. There is a Vegetarian Rice Noodle Soup, the Pho Chay using a vegetable stock and brimming with pan-seared tofu, veggies and vermicelli, and garnished with fresh mint and lime wedges, the Lemongrass Tofu, with onions and bell peppers on a bed of vermicelli, Pan Fried Sweet & Salty Tofu, served with either vermicelli or rice, as well as a Lemongrass Tofu in a Creamy Coconut Sauce, with sautéed onions and bell peppers and served on steamed rice. Two more dishes complete the vegetarian section, the Stir Fried Tofu with Mixed Vegetables in a Lemongrass Sauce, on steamed rice, and the Stir Fried egg noodle with Tofu in a vegetarian Oyster Sauce, with a choice of crisp or soft noodles.

Scattered throughout the menu however, are a number of other dishes, three of them listed under the Vietnamese Hors d’hoeuvres, including Green Onion Cakes, Kim Chi, and the Crispy Tofu Squares served with a peanut sauce. There is also one Thai appetizer, the Thai Salad with Tofu, the Thai dressing being vegetarian.

Under the Steamed Rice Dishes is the Pan Fried Lemongrass with Mixed Vegetables, served on steamed rice and, as side dishes we find steamed rice, coconut rice and vermicelli, available either by the bowl or the bucket. To facilitate one’s choice making, they note which dishes are deemed ‘spicy’. With one of the dishes, under the Vermicelli Bowls, it is similar to the Pan Fried Lemongrass Tofu listed except that it is served with a fish sauce. One simply informs the server that they are vegetarian and they will be served a vegetarian sauce instead.

Desserts are very intriguing, with the Banana and Jackfruit Spring rolls topped with a coconut sauce, and the Grilled Pineapple, Banana and Mango topped with a coconut sauce sitting right up there in my ‘must try’ list. They also serve a Lemongrass Crème Caramel, and what they term a ‘drink’, the Che Ba Mau, with mixed red beans, mung beans, agar jelly, coconut milk and ice all layered, intended to be eaten with a spoon.

They do serve beverages though, from the normal fare, to Vietnamese Coffee, to an assortment of exotic milkshakes and Bubble Milk Teas, these offered with a choice of coconut jelly or sago pearls.

Sweet Mango is a joy to know of, since they started out with the desire to accommodate vegetarians, incorporating their needs right into the menu, and remaining committed to providing a good selection of dishes to keep them/us interested, and wanting more. And, in the final analysis, isn’t that the sign of a good restaurant?

TWO ROOMS CAFÉ

Located in the old(October 2nd, 1903), and funky Dominion Hotel right on Whyte Avenue, the Two Rooms Café is a wonderfully eclectic eatery that is very veg-friendly. It was opened by two sisters, Zofia Trebaczkiewicz and Julia Kundera who were responsible for the opening of Café Mosaics, back in 1987. Two Rooms Café is owned and operated by Zofia, Julia and their husbands, allowing for a consistency and a commitment to both the quality of the food, and the popularity of this venue.

In 1987 there was Mosaics Café, located down Whyte Avenue. The decision was made to relocate to the Dominion Hotel in 1989, after which the Mosaics Café name was sold to other interests, relocated, with Two Rooms Café taking over the space here. Originally Zofia and Julia ran a catering company, Flavours, Foods & Catering Co., before the decision was made to incorporate their dishes and catering into a sit-down dining area, requests by their clientele encouraging them in that direction. They’ve never looked back since.

The basic and all-important premise behind Two Rooms has always been to offer Fresh, Healthy, Wholesome and Balanced foods to their patrons, with a menu flexible to all individuals, even those with specialized needs. There are some vegetarian/vegan selections on the menu, and many of the non-veggie dishes can be made vegetarian or vegan as requested.

To that end, they start with raw materials, all as fresh as possible, with everything being made from scratch. Even the tofu is made on the premises! The veggie burger patties are homemade and not store bought, an important point that reflects the “no-compromise” attitude Zofia and Julia have when it comes to quality control.

The soups are vegetarian and/or vegan, unless otherwise stated, such as beef and barley, etc. They use vegetable stock as the soup base and, in the case of cream soups use soy milk. For any dish that is exclusively vegetarian, separate pans and cooking utensils are used, to ensure the purity of the dishes. They are forever experimenting with new ingredients and dishes, incorporating less common grains such as Spelt and Quinoa into the menu.

Two Rooms reflects the personalities of its owners; it is a warm and friendly venue that invites one in, as one could imagine Zofia and Julia would welcome their friends into their homes. The servers are open and helpful, making one feel completely at ease in the surroundings.

Two Rooms Café is but a reflection of the organic lifestyle of its owners; there is a continuity behind its growth, with the opening up of a new venue just down the block from it, where there once was situated another Edmonton icon, the Bagel Tree Café, a victim of a fire in 2003. Flavours Modern Bistro has a more upscale feel to the menu though again there is definitely more than a nod to vegetarianism and the same commitment to maintaining a close, harmonious relationship between the dishes, the ingredients and the creators of them. And of course, the continuity is also maintained with the choice of name for the new bistro; sad though, that there is the incorporating of a more exotic animal source for some of their dishes.

A note….

When I met both Julia and Zofia, I realized that the bond between them is that of best friends, as well as sisters, where their closeness and joie de vivre is somewhat contagious. Both of them love cooking; food has always been central in their family. While in university they decided to pursue this love by starting up a catering company. Later, they wound up moving into the same neighbourhood, across the street and down the block from one another. Through the years they would be seen crossing over to one another’s homes with fresh baking or cooking in hand. Pretty soon various neighbours started doing the same, with the trading and sharing of foods becoming commonplace among the residents, making the neighbourhood much more closely knit, more like family than a collective of strangers residing on the same street.

For some reason this stayed with me; it speaks volumes about the place food and eating has on the individual and the community. It also seemed to strike a chord with me, as to what I was starting to see as a common thread among so many people within the vegetarian community; the single-mindedness of the individual isn’t necessarily absent, but perhaps incorporated into the communal/communing spirit of the vegetarian, where it seems to permeate throughout the entire being or essence of the individual even as they remain uniquely individual. Interesting.